Hush American Bistro

Restaurant Review: Hush Bistro in Farmingdale

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“The food speaks” is the motto of Hush Bistro, which opened in Farmingdale in November. The attractive, thoughtfully prepared food does indeed have a voice, but people at the restaurant have not been hushed; they are part of the conversation, too.

For example, our amiable, enthusiastic waiter stopped by the table after every course to do a bit of cheerleading: “It’s delicious. Right?” That same night the restaurant’s hostess asked if we were first-timers and then gave a thumbnail dossier of the chef and owner, Marc Anthony Bynum. We learned that he was a Farmingdale native, had held top posts at Four Food Studio in Melville (since closed), Prime in Huntington and Tellers in Islip, and was twice the winner on the Food Network television series “Chopped.”

The 28-seat restaurant is quite small, and only one table can seat more than two people. We found that we needed to call two weeks ahead to snag it. That said, during one of my visits, I noticed diners getting around that restriction. One foursome sat at the elbow of the L-shaped bar with two people on either arm. Another family of four solved the problem by splitting up and sitting in separate but close-by spaces: the parents at the bar and their sons at a two-top directly across from them. One of those boys called Mr. Bynum “Coach” (Mr. Bynum coached his son’s football team for seven years).

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